Visit Ehime and discover the world of the legendary author, Natsume Soseki!
Ehime Prefecture is comprised of a mainland stretch along the northwestern edge of Shikoku and a series of small islands floating in the Seto Inland Sea. Within Matsuyama City — famous as the setting for Botchan, one of the most popular Japanese novels written by Natsume Soseki — you’ll be able to explore and enjoy the real-life versions of Dogo Onsen Honkan, the Botchan Train, and other places that appear in the novel. Along the way, you won’t want to miss a visit to Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge; not only is it the world’s first set of three interconnected suspension bridges, but it also spans the Kurushima Strait, registered as one of Japan’s three most impressive rapids. In this article, we’ll introduce the panoramic platform-side views of the Iyo Sea from Shimonada Station, the lovable felines of Aoshima Cat Island, and a variety of other charming hidden gems as recommended by our local staff!
Classic spots recommended for first timers to Ehime
Matsuyama City
Dogo Onsen Honkan
Dogo Onsen is considered to be Japan’s oldest hot spring, established at some point in the prehistoric Jomon period and purportedly visited by the legendary Prince Shotoku himself. While this symbolic locale has been nationally designated an important cultural property, Dogo Onsen Honkan continues to serve as a bathhouse for the public. It’s split into two primary baths — Tama-no-Yu (Spring of Spirits) and Kami-no-Yu (Spring of Gods) — with four dedicated courses for you to choose depending on how you’d like to enjoy your stay.
Comment from the local staff
Experience the stateliness of Dogo Onsen Honkan just as it’s depicted in Natsume Soseki’s novel, Botchan.
- Hours of operation
- 6:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m. (last entry at 10:30 p.m.)
*Hours may vary by course.
*Subject to a full-day closure in early December due to year-end cleaning. - Course fees
- Tama-no-Yu third-floor private relaxation room: adults, 1,550 JPY; children, 770 JPY
Tama-no-Yu second-floor public relaxation room reserved seat: adults, 1,250 JPY; children, 620 JPY
Kami-no-Yu second-floor public relaxation room reserved seat: adults, 840 JPY; children, 420 JPY
Kami-no-Yu (lower floor): adults, 410 JPY; children, 160 JPY - Access
- By train: from JR Matsuyama Station, take a roughly 25-minute ride on the Iyotetsu Line bound for Dogo Onsen and get off at the last stop.
By car: about 20 minutes from the Matsuyama interchange.
Matsuyama City
Dogo Onsen Annex Asuka-no-Yu
This new bathhouse of Dogo Onsen celebrated its grand opening on December 26, 2017. Based on themes of “Dogo immemorial”, the building features architectural designs of the Asuka period (ca. 538–710), open-air baths that can’t be found at Dogo Onsen Honkan, a special bath recreating the Yushinden emperor’s bath, and a unique experiential course in which guests can bathe while wearing traditional yukata. There are also five private relaxation rooms with artistic elements that tell the tales of local Dogo legends.
Comment from the local staff
This new hub for hot spring culture is sure to stimulate your sensibilities!
- Hours of operation
- First-floor bath: 7:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m. (last entry at 10:30 p.m.)
*Hours may vary by course.
*Subject to occasional unscheduled closures. - Fees
- First-floor bath: adults, 600 JPY; children, 300 JPY
Second-floor great hall: adults, 1,250 JPY; children, 620 JPY
Second-floor private relaxation room: adults, 1,650 JPY; children, 820 JPY
Second-floor special bath (requires separate group fee of 2,000 JPY): adults, 1,650 JPY; children, 820 JPY - Access
- By train: from JR Matsuyama Station, take a roughly 25-minute ride on the Iyotetsu Line bound for Dogo Onsen and get off at the last stop.
By car: about 20 minutes from the Matsuyama interchange.
Imabari City to Oshima
Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge
This suspension bridge stretches from Imabari City to Oshima of the Geiyo Islands. It crosses over the Kurushima Strait, which — together with Naruto and Kanmon — is regarded as one of Japan’s three most impressive rapids. At roughly 2.5 miles long, this bridge is in fact made up of three interconnected suspension bridges, the first of its kind in the world. It includes a small motorcycle lane, a bicycle lane, and a pedestrian walkway so travelers on foot and bike can also cross it. The Itoyama Observatory (Imabari) and Kirosan Observatory (Oshima) on either end offer exceptional views of the Seto Inland Sea; be sure to pay them a visit!
Comment from the local staff
Some nights, the bridge is lit up with colorful illuminations, making it a great spot for romantic nighttime scenery.
- Fees
- Pedestrians: free
Bicyclists: 200 JPY
Regular vehicles (fare from the Imabari-kita interchange to the Oshima-minami interchange): 1,750 JPY - Access
- By car: accessible via the Imabari-kita interchange.
Matsuyama City
Matsuyama Castle
Construction of Matsuyama Castle was commenced in 1602 by military general Kato Yoshiaki, reaching completion after about a quarter of a century. It’s comprised of a main keep situated on the 433-foot summit of Mount Shiro (formally Mount Katsu), a secondary keep (now Ninomaru Historical Garden) on the foothills, and a tertiary keep (castle town). Together with Himeji Castle and Wakayama Castle, Matsuyama Castle is counted as one of Japan’s three greatest flatland-mountain castles to incorporate the grouped-tower architectural design. There’s a handy ropeway lift that leads up to the tower on the summit.
Comment from the local staff
Revel in the sweeping views of Matsuyama City and the Seto Inland Sea from the summit.
- Hours of operation
- Castle tower: 9:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. (last entry at 4:30 p.m.)
*Hours may vary by season.
*Closed on the third Wednesday of December. - Fees
- Castle tower entry and round-trip ropeway ticket:
Adults: 1,020 JPY
Elementary school students: 410 JPY
*Up to two children of preschool age may accompany their guardian for free. - Access
- By train: from JR Matsuyama Station, take the city tram to Okaido Station. From there, it’s about five minutes on foot to Shinonomeguchi Ropeway Station.
By car: about 15 minutes from the Matsuyama interchange.
Matsuyama City
Botchan Train
This is a recreation of the “matchbox” train used by the characters in Natsume Soseki’s famous novel, Botchan. Modeled after steam engines in use from 1888 to the mid-20th century, this train now in fact uses a diesel engine. It follows two tracks: one from Iyotetsu Matsuyama City Station to Dogo Onsen Station, and another from Dogo Onsen Station to Komachi Station. You can board it from Dogo Onsen Station, Okaido Station, Matsuyama City Station, JR Matsuyama Station, and Komachi Station.
Comment from the local staff
This is one of Matsuyama City’s streetcars. It shoots out steam made to look like classic coal-engine smoke.
- Fees
- Ride ticket:
Adults: 800 JPY
Children: 400 JPY
Saijo City, Kumakogen Town
Mount Ishizuchi
Standing over 6,500 feet tall and nestled amid the Shikoku mountain range, this is the tallest mountain in western Japan. It is concurrently registered as one of Japan’s 100 most famous mountains, 100 most scenic spots, and seven most sacred mountains. The harrowing trail up to the summit is known as a path of trials for ascetic mountain worship, but there are ropeways and driveways that will take you up to the seventh cardinal station. The park at the 4,265-foot mark offers the Mount Ishizuchi Star Night Tour, a popular day-trip tour where you can get unobstructed views of the moon and heavens above.
Comment from the local staff
For beginners, we recommend the Tsuchigoya route since it’s equipped with bridges and rest benches.
- Hours of operation
- Ishizuchi Tozan Ropeway: 8:40 a.m.–5:00 p.m.
*Hours may vary by season.
*Closed for about a week in April for routine inspection and maintenance. - Fees
- Ishizuchi Tozan Ropeway (round-trip):
Adults (junior high school students and up): 1,950 JPY
Elementary school students: 980 JPY - Access
- To the Ishizuchi Tozan Ropeway:
By train: from JR Iyo-Saijo Station, take the Setouchi Bus bound for Nishinokawa and get off at the Ropeway-mae bus stop.
By car: about 30 minutes from the Iyo-Komatsu interchange.
Matsuyama City
Ishite-ji Temple
This is No.51 of the 88 temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. It was built in 728 by imperial decree of Ochi Tamazumi, provincial governor of Iyo. On its spacious grounds, you’ll find a Niomon deva gate that’s been registered as a national treasure, and the main hall and three-storied pagoda have also been designated as important cultural properties. There’s much more to see as well, including a 525-foot-deep mantra cave and the temple treasure house. And if you’ve got a new member of the family on the way, don’t forget to take home a koumi-ishi, a famous stone talisman said to bestow safe childbirth and treasured offspring.
Comment from the local staff
This temple has earned one star in the Michelin Green Guide Japan.
- Access
- By train: From Matsuyama City Station (accessible via the Iyotetsu Line), take the Iyotetsu Bus and get off at the Ishiteji bus stop. From there, it’s about five minutes on foot.
By car: about 20 minutes from the Matsuyama interchange.
Imabari City
Oyamazumi-jinja Shrine
This shrine houses the spirit of Oyamatsumi-no-Kami, brother of Amaterasu the sun goddess. It is one of Japan’s most comprehensive tutelary shrines, with over 10,000 branch shrines across the country under its tutelage. In the center of the grounds is a sacred great camphor tree said to be roughly 2,600 years old, and the grouping of camphor trees within the shrine has been designated a national natural monument for being Japan’s oldest primeval shrine grove. The inner shrine and hall of worship are also registered as important cultural properties. And what’s more, the treasure house on the grounds regularly puts on exhibits of arms, armor, and other military artifacts considered to be national treasures and/or important cultural properties.
Comment from the local staff
This shrine regularly welcomes worshippers who pray to the gods of the seas and mountains.
- Hours of operation
- Sunrise to 5:00 p.m.
Treasure house hours are 8:30 a.m.–5:00 p.m. (last entry at 4:30 p.m.)
*Open year-round. - Fees
- Free to worship
Treasure house entry fees:
Adults: 1,000 JPY
High school and university students: 800 JPY
Elementary and junior high school students: 400 JPY - Access
- By train: from JR Imabari Station, take the bus and get off at the Oyamazumi Jinja-mae bus stop. From there, it’s just a short walk away.
By car: about 10 minutes from the Omishima interchange.
Kumakogen Town & Seiyo City (and others)
Shikoku Karst Nature Park
Straddling Ehime and Kochi prefectures is one of Japan’s three biggest karsts — a unique kind of scenic limestone topography. The Shikoku Karst stretches on about 15.5 miles and encompasses the Onogahara, Mezurudaira, Godan Kogen, and Tengu Kogen areas; the plateau is dotted with patches of white limestone all along the stretch. From spring through autumn, Mezurudaira boasts idyllic scenery of cattle grazing on the plains, and there are campgrounds for guests to use. We recommend spending a few nights at Mezurudaira Cottage or Mezuruso to make use of their barbeque facility and restaurant!
Comment from the local staff
The northern side of Onogahara has a sprawling primeval beech forest, with plenty of alpine flora as well!
- Hours of operation
- Accessible from April to November (Mezuruso and Mezurudaira Cottage also only operate from April and November)
*Open every day during the above period. - Access
- By car: about 100 minutes from the Matsuyama interchange.
Niihama City
Mount Besshi
Mount Besshi is located to the south of Niihama City, surrounded by the Akaishi mountain range and other such jagged peaks of Shikoku. Every year, Mount Besshi attracts a great number of climbers eager to try their hand at trekking the mountains in the 4,000- to 6,000-foot range. We recommend taking the Besshi Suiha-Hana-Kaido Road, which stretches from Niihama City to Shikokuchuo City. It’s dotted with a variety of attractions such as Minetopia Besshi, a hot spring theme park utilizing the old site of Besshi Copper Mine, one of Japan’s three greatest copper mines to date.
Comment from the local staff
The Besshi Suiha-Hana-Kaido Road makes for a stunningly scenic drive.
- Hours of operation
- Minetopia Besshi: 9:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. (last entry at 5:00 p.m.)
*Hours may vary for each facility depending on the season. - Fees
- Minetopia Besshi: fees vary by facility.
- Access
- To Minetopia Besshi:
By train: from JR Niihama Station, take the Setouchi Bus bound for Minetopia and get off at the Minetopia Besshi bus stop.
By car: about 30 minutes from the Niihama interchange.
Ehime’s hidden gems recommended by locals in the know
Ozu City
Aoshima
This little island is known by feline enthusiasts as a cat’s paradise, said to have about 100 cats for every 15 residents. There are feeding areas where local fishermen will scatter about the remaining bony parts of the fish after they’ve been filleted; watch as the cats put their street smarts on display, deftly snatching up the savory snacks and making it clear who really owns the island. Aoshima also appears in Natsume Soseki’s novel, Botchan, and there is no shortage of fishing and clamming opportunities to enjoy, either.
Comment from the local staff
There are no overnight lodgings on the island, so be sure to check the boat departure times and plan accordingly!
- Hours of operation
- Regularly scheduled ferryboat:
Departing Nagahama Port: 8:00 a.m., 2:30 p.m.
Departing Aoshima Port: 8:45 a.m., 4:15 p.m.
*Departure times may vary by season.
*Open year-round (may be canceled during inclement weather). - Fees
- Round-trip ferryboat tickets:
Adults (ages 12 and up): 1,360 JPY
Children (ages 6 and up): 680 JPY - Access
- To the Nagahama Port boarding dock:
By train: about two minutes on foot from JR Iyo-Nagahama Station. (The ferryboat takes roughly 35 minutes from Nagahama Port to Aoshima Port.)
By car: about 30 minutes from the Ozu interchange.
Iyo City
Shimonada Station
This unmanned station on the JR Yosan Line has long been referred to as “the station you should visit at least once in your life”. It used to also be known as “Japan’s closest station to the sea” as it provides gorgeous views of the waters of Setouchi from the platform. It’s highly popular as a photo-op spot, and it’s been used for no small number of movies, magazines, and commercials. Every year on the first Saturday of September, it plays host to the Sunset Platform Concert. The combination of the Iyo Sea, the burning sunset, and the lively music are sure to get your heartstrings moving.
Comment from the local staff
The Iyonada Monogatari sightseeing train stops here on its route from Matsuyama Station.
- Access
- By car: about 30 minutes from the Iyo interchange.
Imabari City
Kirosan Observatory Park
This observatory park is situated at an elevation of about 1,010 feet and is a designated part of Setonaikai National Park. The panoramic observatory bridge was designed by noted architect Kengo Kuma, and from it you can see the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge and the rapids of the Kurushima Strait. Especially from evening through sundown, the scenery undergoes a series of mystical changes that gives true meaning to the phrase, “magic hour”. You also won’t want to miss the regular illumination shows of the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge and the nighttime scenery of Imabari City.
Comment from the local staff
On a clear day, you can see the peaks of the Ishizuchi mountain range to the southeast.
- Access
- By car: about 10 minutes from the Oshima-minami interchange.
Uchiko Town
Yokaichi-Gokoku: Important Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings
Uchiko Town thrived as a producer of Japanese sumac wax from the late Edo period through to the Meiji era. The Yokaichi-Gokoku district of the town heavily retains the vestiges of this prosperity. Here, you can see rows of traditionally built townhouses and wealthy merchant houses preserved in all their glory along a nearly 2,000-foot stretch of local road. The contrast of the white stucco and light-yellow walls made from local clay creates a scenery that has a unique warmth to it.
Comment from the local staff
This townscape is highly photogenic and curiously nostalgic.
- Access
- By train: about 25 minutes on foot from JR Uchiko Station.
By car: about five minutes from the Uchiko-Ikazaki interchange.
Uchiko Town
Uchiko-za Theater
This small-scale theater was built in 1916 in celebration of Emperor Taisho’s ascendance to the throne. A two-story wooden building with tiled roofing, the theater features a variety of authentic architecture, including gallery seating, a revolving stage, and a “flower way” — an elevated performance walkway that runs from the stage to the rear of the theater. All in all, the building offers a rare and focused look at the architectural techniques and styles of the bygone era. In 1985, the building was restored (preserving its original design) so that visitors can tour the building and watch modern theatrical performances. And every year in August, the theater puts on bunraku puppet plays that attract fans from around the country.
Comment from the local staff
The theater celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2016.
- Hours of operation
- 9:00 a.m.–4:30 p.m.
*Closed from December 29 to January 2. - Building tour fees
- Adults: 400 JPY
Elementary and junior high school students: 200 JPY
Children: free - Access
- By train: about 10 minutes on foot from JR Uchiko Station.
By car: about five minutes from the Uchiko-Ikazaki interchange.
Imabari City
Towel Museum Ichihiro
Welcome to the world’s one and only towel-themed museum, located in the uniquely famous towel-producing city of Imabari. There’s much to see and plenty to interact with here: Cotton Road, which features oodles of eye-catching towel artwork; a tour booth for guests to observe the towel production process; and the Towel Collection Shop, which offers a fine lineup of fluffy products. This facility is also highly rated for its spacious European garden, restaurant, and cafe.
Comment from the local staff
In addition to their permanent exhibit, “The World of Moomin”, they also put on special exhibits from time to time.
- Hours of operation
- 9:30 a.m.–6:00 p.m. (gallery tours end 30 minutes before closing)
*Closes at 8:00 p.m. on Saturdays and during consecutive holidays (excluding the last day of the consecutive holiday). Extended hours during January and February go until 7:00 p.m.
*Open year-round (closed on the third and fourth Tuesday of January for maintenance). - Museum entry fees
- Adults: 800 JPY
Junior high and high school students: 600 JPY
Elementary school students: 400 JPY
Seniors ages 65 and up: 500 JPY
*Guests can shop and dine without paying the museum entry fee. - Access
- By train: about 25 minutes by taxi from JR Imabari Station.
By car: about 15 minutes from the Imabari interchange.
Matsuyama City
Kururin Ferris Wheel
This great Ferris wheel was erected atop the Iyotetsu Takashimaya department store as the newest symbol of Matsuyama. It climbs to a maximum height of 278 feet above ground level, providing sweeping daytime views of Matsuyama Castle, the Seto Inland Sea, and the Matsuyama cityscape. At night, the Ferris wheel is lit up with dazzlingly colorful illuminations, making it a very popular and whimsical place to be. There are two see-through gondolas with transparent glass floors — great for visitors looking to enjoy a thrilling sky walk during the wheel’s 15-minute revolution.
Comment from the local staff
Come during the month of your birthday and you can ride the regular gondola for free as many times as you want!
- Hours of operation
- 10:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m. (last boarding at 9:45 p.m.)
*Closed on the same days as the Iyotetsu Takashimaya department store. - Fees
- 700 JPY (900 JPY for the see-through gondola)
*Children under elementary school age ride for free, provided they are accompanied by their guardian. - Access
- By train: just a short walk from Matsuyama City Station.
By car: about 15 minutes from the Matsuyama interchange.
Matsuyama City
Okudogo Onsen
Okudogo Ichiyu no Mori
Located in the inner reaches of Dogo Onsen is this little hot spring locale, nuzzled up against the deep banks of the Ishite River Valley. Here, you’ll find Okudogo Ichiyu no Mori, an overnight accommodation with simple alkaline sulfur springs bubbling straight up from the underground source. They proudly offer one of west Japan’s biggest open-air baths, surrounded by a brilliant panorama of nature. The lodging also features privately reservable open-air baths, guestrooms with open-air lookout baths, and a buffet with about 80 menu items.
Comment from the local staff
There’s more to Ehime than just Dogo Onsen; get your fill of hot springs at day-use baths such as this one!
- Access
- By train: from JR Matsuyama Station, take the Iyotetsu Bus bound for Okudogo and get off at the Okudogo bus stop. It’s just a short walk from there.
By car: about 45 minutes from the Imabari interchange.
MAP
*The rights to some of the pictures posted above belong to the companies that originally provided them. Copyright c 2017 Shobunsha Publications, Inc. All rights reserved